LOW FLOW alert on IntelliTouch with Hayward AquaRite SWG

dragon tamer

Active member
May 1, 2023
29
NorCal
So, I recently upgraded my IntelliTouch firmware from 1.060 to 1.191 (Thx Ogdento!). Then installed a WhisperFlo VS 011533 pump. My problem is that I keep getting a LOW FLOW alert on the IntelliTouch and the AquaRite panel gets very ugly... If I shut the pump off for 1 minute and unplug the T-cell, everything works normally for a couple hours and then it repeats. The AquaRite is 17 years old, and still the original firmware. The T-cell is brand new. The Flow Switch is only a couple of years old, and it was not having this problem with the old single speed pump. I started around 1600 RPM and I am up to 2250 RPM. Still having the same problem. I am going to change it to 3000 for tomorrow and see if the issue occurs then. Does anyone else have any ideas?
 

Attachments

  • pcb.jpeg
    pcb.jpeg
    472.7 KB · Views: 13
  • LOW FLOW.jpeg
    LOW FLOW.jpeg
    341.2 KB · Views: 15
Hmmm... so it happened at 3000 RPM, so I got a phone cable and connected the two ends... and after an hour, still got the LOW FLOW and messed up AquaRite. So, I am leaning on firmware at this point.
 

Attachments

  • Flow Sw.jpeg
    Flow Sw.jpeg
    447.9 KB · Views: 6
Well... I think my issue is the salt level. I reluctantly added salt to the pool after the third time the local pool store tested the water and said I needed to add a bag of salt. My system was showing 3000, but their test showed 2500. So, I added a bag of salt and now I am at 3500-3600. I think that is causing the cell to reach the maximum allowable amperage and the system is shutting down. So, I am adding water to the pool right now and letting the overflow system put the rest in the gutter. Hopefully when I get it down to 3200 PPM, the AquaRite will operate normally.
 
So, I diluted the pool salinity down to 3000... And still had the same problem. I borrowed a friends t-cell, and again, had the same problem. In just under 30 minutes, the AquaRite goes from looking great to all of the alert lights illuminated at the same moment.

So, I have ruled flow switch, the salt level and the t-cell. I'm down to the actual motherboard... but I don't know enough about it to know where to start.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
 
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

 
Hi Allen,

Thx for the response!! But, I'm not sure what readings I am looking for... Am I just looking for the information in the display window when I cycle thru with the diagnostics button?

Cell - JE22349
Box - 5A0505-1110506

Salinity reading is via the IntelliTouch and currently reads 2900.

I am going to go out and look to see if I am using the same comm port for the WhisperFlo VS and the AquaRite...
 
Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
The Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines explains each reading.

  • Instant salt = the cells reading of the current salt PPM
  • Average Salt = the average salt reading of the last 3 cycles of the cell.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ogdento
Cell - JE22349

You have a non-Hayward clone cell.

Where is the cell from?

We see some clone cells that are not as compatible as claimed.

Did this problem all start when you installed this clone cell?

Salinity reading is via the IntelliTouch and currently reads 2900.

You need to get the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit or Salt to know your real salinity.
 
ok... well, I was planning on shutting the system down and checking my RS-485 connections... now I know I need to do that. My readings are cycling all over the place, and I think it probably started when I hooked up the WhisperFlo VS RS-485 to the same COMM port.

Stay...
 
Ok... I believe I have an RS-485 issue since this started when I added the VS pump, and the readings are cycling...

Here are the readings...

In AUTO

2900
72
cycling between 30.5 and 24.5... this also corresponds to when the Remote light is blinking on and off.
cycling between 5.17 and 0.00
cycling between 20P and 68P
-2900
AL-0
R 1.33

In OFF

2900
72
30.6 stable
0.00
20P
-0
AL-0
R 1.33

Back in AUTO

2900
72
24.4
4.96
cycling between 20P and 68P
-3000
AL-0
R 1.33
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Well... things seem to be connected well... I only removed three wires on one COMM port for the WhisperFlo VS RS-485 cable... the red, yellow and green. I checked the connections, and they seem solid. But, I just ordered a 520818 COMM port expansion board. I'll give everything its own dedicated hook up and see if that removes my issue.
 
So the 20P and 68P make sense. I have the IntelliTouch set at 20 and the manual setting on the box is 68. The cycling corresponds to the Remote light turning on and off. I'm guessing that the other cycling settings also have to due with the Remote cycling, and suspect that all boils down to the RS-485...
 
BTW... mine is an AQ-RITE... it does not show the cell type in the display window, and I can't figure out how to check that to save my life...

Is there a way to upgrade the firmware on the AQ-RITE to a later version? And would that provide any benefits?
 
Well... things seem to be connected well... I only removed three wires on one COMM port for the WhisperFlo VS RS-485 cable... the red, yellow and green.

Where are you using the red wire?

The RS-485 connection for the Whisperflo VST should only use two wires - yellow and green.

Do you have Aquarite connected with two wires or four wires?

Aquarite_to_Easytouch_wiring.jpg
 
BTW... mine is an AQ-RITE... it does not show the cell type in the display window, and I can't figure out how to check that to save my life...

Revision 1.50 added the ability to select the T-cell type in the settings. Prior to revision 1.50, the system was preset to take a T-5 or T-15.

The earlier boards have a jumper on the board to select the cell type of T5 or T15. In some cases the jumper is adjustable and in some cases it requires that you solder the points together to select the T15 option if the board originally came set to T-5.
Is there a way to upgrade the firmware on the AQ-RITE to a later version? And would that provide any benefits?

Only by replacing the board. The new board has changed come components.

I think at one time there were some folks here flashing updates but I have not seen that recently.
 
VS pump is only using the yellow and green wires... no issues with the pump that I am aware of.

It seems that my installer knew that info regarding the AquaRite, but made the changes at the other end... I just went thru them, and they appear to be correct.

4 wires. Red wire goes to Red receptacle.

I just tried switching the COMM port that the VS pump is hooked to... still have the flashing Remote light on the AquaRite...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8207.jpeg
    IMG_8207.jpeg
    265.4 KB · Views: 29
Try disconnecting the outside wires - back and red - shown on this picture and see what you get....

img_8207-jpeg.491413
 
I will check that this afternoon Allen. Right now I am running the system with the Remote - OFF. I want to see if there are any errors that way.

Is the 4-wire / 2-wire issue a change that came about with later IntelliTouch firmware versions?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.