Pentair Globrite Alternatives

sju10544

Member
Dec 17, 2021
8
Fort Myers, FL
Hi all,
as many others, I have also a failed Pentair Globrite LED pool light.

mknauss said that he is directing those installing new pools to NOT use Globrites due to proprietary receptable and failure rate.

So what is the best bet in this case? To spend over $ 300 for a new one and wait that the other lights will fail within a few months

or replace the pool light generally. And if yes, which one and how to.

Any ideas would be highly appreciated.

Regards
Jens
 
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Yes -- Florida Sunseeker has LED lights that will work in the Globrite receptacle. They are 6" in out side diameter however (they cover over the Globrite attachment) and use a silicone ring to keep them in place. Also, they will NOT coincide with the color readouts in a Pentair automation. So you just have to change the color until you get what you want.
 
You do not have to expand the openings. The light engine fits in the Globrite receptacle. The outside diameter of the light (which simply sits on the surface of your pool shell) is about 6" in diameter. So you need to be sure there is nothing that close to the light (such as a step, ledge, etc). The automation will control the lights, just that the light color will not match the automation color reported.
 
Pentair also has an adapter that will fit their MicroBrite lights. Pentair model 618040 is the adapter.

They also have a MicroBrite-G light, which is the MicroBrite with the adapter pre installed. Pentair # 620166 is the color LED. Can read more about them here.

--Jeff
 
Thank you Jeff for this information.

But after checking the prize and spend again a lot of money for the Pentair LED + the adapter only to learn that this "original quality" product will probably fail again within three years is IMHO not the best bet, right?
 

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I have not heard of consistent failures of the MicroBrite lamp. In fact, I am not sure I've seen any discussion on this forum regarding failed MicroBrites. It may have to do with the length of time they have been in service is shorter than the GloBrite. The GloBrite is very prone to failure, from what I've seen. In fact my GloBrite in my spa began failing after 8 months (Would not sync with the pool lights when water temps were cold), and completely failed after 18-20 months (quit lighting up in cold water). I will be changing out to the MicroBrite-G once my warranty runs out on the GloBrites, so that the lighting features will function with my automation. If you do not care about the lighting features, then the Florida Sunseeker light may be a better option.

--Jeff
 
May be a stupid question: but do I have to replace the entire LED INCLUDING the cable? What if I cut the "old" cable, solder the "new" cable from the Sunseeker light to the "old" one and seal this with shrinking tube and silicone? Would be much easier than to replace the long wire...
 
Thanks mknauss for your answer. Still don't understand. I could imagine that the cable and the the body for the LED is "one" part. But my idea was to cut the cable a couple of inches behind this body and solder the "new" cable from the replacement LED.

BWT: Have found the BRILLIANT WONDERS 1.5" LED LIGHT here: Brilliant Wonders Color LED Light | P-Style 11 Watts 25' Cord | 25503-560-025P as an alternative to the Globrites. Any comments on this one?
 
But my idea was to cut the cable a couple of inches behind this body and solder the "new" cable from the replacement LED.
Try it. I think Florida Sunseeker has that process. I would not do it with a Globrite since you can only buy the entire unit.

No idea on the other light.

Remember, whatever you get, has to work inside a Globrite receptacle. Not all will.
 
The process you describe, while entirely doable, is a glaring violation NEC electrical code for pools. Obviously your the pool owner and the homeowner so you can do whatever you want to do but, in the off chance that “fix” causes anyone injury, you would be 110% liable for any and all damages with no recourse to insurance. True that it’s a low voltage light and so even direct contact with live wires would present minimal harm, but you never know … you simple assume all the risk.

Honestly, is it really that hard to pull cable?? If the electrical conduit was run correctly to the proper J-box, then the pull should be relatively easy.
 
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