My 5 year old switch just died also. I just ordered mine from CA also. Thanks for the advice on the phone wire. It will keep me going until my new switch arrives. I agree with you about the gal on the phone. Very friendly and helpful.

Mine lasted about 5 years...
YMMV

Tagprod!

Hi,

How do you bypass it? To troubleshoot?

Mine is only 2 years old.

I found an old telephone cord with 4 wires (2 pairs), cut off one end and twisted the four wires together. That got rid of the "no flow" message, but I then got a "low temperature" message so the chlorinator is still off. I tried isolating the pair for temperature, but open or closed I still get "low temperature". Does anyone know how to set it up so that both messages go away and the chlorinator will come on?

If they use a standard thermocouple it would be easy. Just short both leads out and it would read ambient temperature. If they use a thermister it's looking for a resistance, somewhere near 1000Ω should be close. Got one of those laying around???

It's got to be a thermister. I tried shorting the whole thing and that didn't work, and I'm fresh out of 1KΩ resistors. That's ok, I'm going to have the new switch overnighted. Thanks for the help, though.

BTW, does anyone know how I can find out who Blue Haven sources their Smart Control controllers from?

I had a 'no flow' message on my Goldline and my current 7 yr switch looked ok although a bit discolored. I followed instructions on this posting and used a twisted-wire telephone cord to troubleshoot. Worked like a champion and my generator started back up making chlorine. So I ordered a new switch and they promptly sent me a new one for $80 (incl shipping) just like everyone stated. Everything was going according to plan, except when I installed the new switch, my 'no flow' message returned. When I put back in the twisted-wire cord back in, everything starts working again. Any ideas?

Welcome to TFP.

You didn't install the flow siwtch in backwards did you. If you did the flow would hold it open instead of closing it.

Geez! The arrow was pointing in the wrong direction...opposite of h20 flow. Now it's working perfectly. Thanks for such a quick response. And count me in as being very pleased with Harwil's response. They were about to send me another new switch just in case the first one didn't work. Great cust service.

Glad that's all it was. Sometimes the simple things bite us!

Just a FYI suggestion, If you have a bad flow switch, and replace it. Take the old one and cut off the cable about 18" down from the telephone plug.
Strip back the gray cable about 3" and then strip the red and black wires and twist them together. Save this as a test cable and if you suspect the flow switch is bad, then just unplug flow switch and plug in shorted cable, you should get a flow indication within about 30 seconds verifying the flow switch is bad.
Why spend a buck or more on a telephone cable?

Norm

Have the same flow sensor problem. Like everyone else here, this post saved my $160 (i've got two bad sensors). Here are my additions to the thread:

1) When making the 'bypass' cable for testing, twisting all the wires together caused a 'sensor fault' message. I was using a 6 conductor phone cable. All I had at the time. Twisting each paip together separately did the trick. My unit must have the ability to use other wires in the sensor for other options.
2) My salt sensor is in the cell
3) My temperature sensor is a separate sensor
4) Don't leave your 'bypass' cable in while you order your new sensor. As one response put it, you could cause a catastrophic event if your flow is interrupted by too many leaves or a de-primed pump. I know the catastrophic event is worst case, but I've had enough 'worst case' scenarios happen to know to avoid them. Better to spend a few bucks on a couple of packets of pool shock/chlorine to get you by instead of $1000's to replace your equipment.
5) Make sure the flow arrow is in the right direction when you install the new one.

Kudos to Harwil, great company to work with.

Thanks again to all who have contributed! Very helpful.

I had a similar no flow problem. I performed the test of the spliced telephone cable and it worked. Next up is to try to replace the RJ-45 connector on the switch. If that doesn't work I'll replace the switch.

Thanks all for the info - this saved me a ton of money!

Hey folks, just wanted to chime in. I'm setting up my SWG for the first time and have bought separate components, Kudos for this find, I just ordered switch and Tee for 70.00

Should have everything up and running by next weekend.

Janet was pleased to hear that we are all happy customers.

I know this is almost a year after the last post, but I too must thank everyone for this tip! My chlorinator wouldn't work and would constantly say 'no flow'. After reading that it could be the flow switch, I decided to unscrew the flow switch (while the pump was on - yes, I can be a complete idiot). After removing the switch and holding the prongs of the switch together, the no-flow light stayed on. Found this site by accident and decided to try to replace the flow switch. Was a little apprehensive, so asked first at Leslie's pool supply and they wanted $185 for the switch. At that point, went right home, called the number on the site, ordered the switch and had it about 5 days later.

Long story short(ish) the new switch worked and my pool is now perfectly balanced! Just an FYI as an aside, only buy your salt from Wal Mart - They carry Morton pool salt for about 6 bucks, the pool company wanted 9. Could have saved a lot of money especially opening a pool with no salt!

Again, thanks a lot for posting this! Now if I could only get my GFCI for the pool lights to start working again!

Matt

If you are running any of the Gold Line Controls or Hayward AQL-PS 4,8,16.

( Notsure on my Aqua Rite if it is abale to turn off flow switch have to ck on that one if I could I will turn that one off as I only need the AQL one working since the AQL unit is Primary and Aqua Rite is slave since I run two 40K cell due to size of pool )

now you can go into the locked control set up and change the flow switch to on or off if you are trying to trouble shoot and if you want to keep your SW cell generating salt. I sploke with Gold Line Controlls when I need a new flow switch under warranty and need to bypass flow switch as it was going to be a week before I would receive. I perfer to have the flow switch set to ON to protect my Heater and SW cells incase pump turns off or other issue.

Send me an email and I can let you know how to turn off flow switch from reading and correct way for bypass. Or if Admin likes I can post directions.

good luck

I just bought a Swimpure Plus and could not get the flow to cooperate. Tried to test with the phone cord twisted pair but that showed a constant no flow. My solution for testing was a very small zip tie on the flow valve flapper. I am now generating but need to solve the flow situation. Unfortunately it requires digging and extending pipe.