Welcome to the forum!

Um, I don't see this (might be stupid). Could someone explain again how to remove the tri-sensor (yup, I got exactly the same problem, of course).

I went ahead and cleaned out the pool filter (which did need cleaning) and this seems to have restored flow properly, but with this error I want to try *some* of the troubleshooting here and cleaning the sensor seems the next best bet.

Poolsean explained this just a few posts ago:

Thanks, got it.

Okay, the sensor doesn't appear to need cleaning, the pressure seems fine, and the cell is clean. I do note that, unlike some here, I get a salt reading when I check (it says 1400ppm and to add 150lbs). That seems to tell me that the sensor is fine (well, at least in terms of salt and connectivity). But still, no flow. The only thing I can't check from this thread is if the flow valve itself might be jammed open.

My valve (I guess) is in a *somewhat* opaque fitting right beneath the loop, but I can't see at all through it and thus can't check whether it's closing or not. The pipes are glued (obviously) but I can't tell if this fitting itself is -- would that normally be the case or should I be able to unscrew it by using a strap wrench around it? (I don't want to force anything here). Otherwise, is there any other way I can check to see if water is going through here and not through the loop? (I tried pushing a strap through but had no luck -- I can use a coat hanger if anyone thinks that's a good idea).

Other than the possibility of the valve being stuck open I'm kind of stumped here, so any and all suggestions would be welcomed.

The semi-transparent spring check valve at the bottom of an Auto Pilot manifold is glued in. Those valves almost never fail, though once in a very long while they get some debris stuck in them which hold the valve open.

And then what do you do?

I'm not saying that's my problem, but if it IS (or at least part of my problem) I'm not sure how I'd fix it.

I tried a coat hanger just to see if I could even tell if the valve was open or not but didn't seem to have any luck. And since *everything* is glued into the pipe I would suspect the only way to proceed is to start cutting (which is NOT going to happen for me -- I guess that's the old "time for a new Timex" sort of thing)

Usually, when there is debris in the spring check valve you can flush it out by blocking the flow to the cell. You can do that by wrapping the strainer in plastic wrap. That increases the flow through the check valve significantly and will usually clean it out.

Typically the plastic is see through enough that you can tell what you are doing when using a coat hanger. It is just barely possible to poke around in there if you can see what you are doing, nearly impossible when you can't see.

Howdy all, I'm new to the site great info,

I just downloaded the "pin-out" document, & went through the continuity & resistance checks of the tri-sensor and the harness.

No problems found there, I don't think lack of flow is a real issue as the pool vacuum (Kreepy Krawley) is still able to crawl the bottom, and up the sides; when I have had true flow problems in the past that does not happen.

Just to be sure I did tear down my pump, I saw some scoring in the case ring & impeller wear that wasn't bad but since I had a spare of each I changed those, slight improvement (negligible) to what I was seeing before I swapped case & impeller.

Backwash flow seems good in the waste/flush mode from the sand filter, there is some cavitation in the pump when in vacuum mode with bottom drain closed and skimmer suction only; the pump filter basket almost runs dry and the pump pulls very hard through that, there is also a lot of aeration in the pump's filter cover, I have found a few fitting leaks which I will be correcting tomorrow in daylight hours on suction fittings to the pump, possibly flow is being compromised by that to some degree primarily the valve stem packing gland for the bottom suction valve cut out seems to be sucking air a little, I'm hoping that fixes what is going on.

If I correct all the suspect fittings & I still have low flow alarm, what next a circuit board, any known tests to verify for the board ???

When checking the cell the salinity probes are very black, would poor conductivity in those cause low flow light?

Lastly when system is aligned for recirc or normal filter, I can see through the body of the lower crossover, and I can see that the check valve is unseating a little 1/8"-3/16" near as I can best tell, is this normal?

My apologies for being long winded but I wanted to cover all bases of what I have checked so far, oh BTW screen and & the cell itself are clear.

Tim

Pool specs 17' x 35' oval in-ground 8' deep end approx 22K of water in pool, Pool Pilot DIG-220 SWG installed March 2007, Triton TR60 sand filter, Water Ace RSP10 pump 220v/1Hp 1yr old

The flow proof is a switch. If you put a jumper across the flow switch wires (pins 1 & 2) the low flow light should go out. If it doesn't then the board or cabling from the switch to the board is bad. To eliminate the cabling put a jumper between the middle pins (1 & 2) in the molex connector on the board. If you still get a low flow indication the board is bad.

CAUTION: DO NOT run the unit with the flow switch jumped except a few seconds for testing.