I love the TF100!

Quick question - the OTO test shows 0 chlorine, so I decided to test for CC using the FAS-DPD test.

Upon initially putting in the powder, the solution did not turn red as the test indicates. I proceeded and added the 5 drops of R-0003, and the water turned slightly pinkish after a few seconds. Then one drop of R-871 (if I recall the number correct, typing this from memory) turned it back to clear.

Is this the correct way to test for CC when the FC reading is 0?

If so, here are my numbers:

FC: 0
CC: 0.5
TC: 0.5
pH: 7.2
T/A: 70
CH: 240
CYA: Waiting for sample to warm to room temp, won't have a reading until later on today.
Temp: COLD (did not measure)

What i thought was algae coating the floor of my pool, according to these numbers, seems to be just dirt. I will vacuum it to waste.

How can I check that my SWG is actually generating chlorine? I have bleach because I expected to need to shock - should I bring it up to shock level? I was thinking I should run the overnight FC loss test.

You could well have a little algae. Any time FC is zero algae is possible. That doesn't mean you do have algae, just that you can't be sure either way when FC is zero.

Most SWGs will not work when the water is very cold. The cut off temperature varies, but most of them are off by the time the water is down to 50 degrees.

Given the water is very cold, shocking should be fairly easy. Once you know your CYA level, bringing the FC level up to shock level for your CYA level once should do it (unless there are complications).

Just what I was thinking - I need to make sure my SWG is turned off until the water warms up.

I also have salt and borate strips - I wouldn't imagine so, but are either of these temperature sensitive? I want to test the salt so I know how much to add once the water warms up.

Regarding the water sample for the CYA - how do I know when the temp is good? The mixing bottle is not cold to the touch anymore, is that warm enough or should I give it a few more hours?

I feel like testing the water again just for the fun of it.

Regarding the CH test - the solution (once I got up to about 20 drops), turned blue momentarily when adding drops, but the blue didn't "hold." I waited until it turned blue and stayed blue - is that correct?

Just let the CYA sample get to room temperature. Then you can test it.

On the CH, once you get a good blue, go ahead and add one more drop. If it doesn't get any bluer, then disregard the last drop and make your reading.

I can see the black drop for the CYA test all the way to the top of the tube. I assume this means I have no CYA; I just ordered 25 pounds from my pool company.

Correct, no CYA. Normally, you want to wait to shock until you have a little CYA in the water. Because the water is so cold, you could shock in the evening. As long as the water is expected to stay cold, it is probably simpler to wait till you have some CYA in the water.

I won't have the CYA until tomorrow evening, then another week or so for the CYA to dissolve. I'm thinking of shooting for a level of 30-50 for the shocking process, then once I get my salt level corrected and water temp up I would add the rest.