Before I found this wonderful/useful website/forum I had decided to change from Baquacil to Chlorine (on Baqua for about 3 years and went cloudy - suprise) I had started to convert by adding 3 lbs of dichlor (24FT round above ground 4 ft deep). Pool immediately changed color and scummed up top, about an hour later I found this site !! Yes, call me a dummy, I sure did. Anyhow, I decided to try to do the only thing I was relatively certain would unscrew my screw-up. I drained the pool down to about 1/8 inch (empty in other words) cleaned out the sand from filter and replaced sand, cleaned all hoses as best could and started refilling. (sorry for the long story but want to get as much detail covered where I've been) I have downloaded Pool Calculator for my IPhone and am in process of getting chlorine bleach and other supplies gathered, and yes, I ordered a TF100xl last night.

All that out of the way, is there anything I need to be mindful of or any suggestions of the best course of action to get this thing started ?? Just like a new start-up or opening from winter storage?? I tried to check other topics and all I found seemed to refer to converting without draining, I ASSUME that draining will be a quicker change-over but I also know the spelling of the word assume.

Any words of wisdom, suggestions, or even criticism would be appreciated and heeded.

Thanks for your help.

Don

Welcome to TFP!

There may still be baquacil residue in the plumbing or on the pool surfaces. It would be best if you follow the complete conversion procedure, it will just go really quickly. You can assume that the FC loss will be fairly low right from the start, so it is best to only add chlorine in the evenings until you have confirmed an overnight FC loss of 1.0 or lower and added CYA.

Thanks for your quick reply, I will follow your suggestion. Will it be okay to at least dip in the pool on a hot day while trying to get things balanced or any definate "don't" rules as far as using the pool while getting started up (given the way I have gone about things).

Although you won't lose a limb or anything, it's always best to wait until things are nice and balanced before swimming in the water.

Okay, pool filled back up, scum & crud vacuumed from the bottom to waste, fresh filter media in place and filtering. Checked with my 'handy dandy' test strips (eagerly awaiting my TF100xl and stirrer) and as best I can tell my FC was about 0 and PH was about 8.4. Added (loosely based upon Pool Calculator app) 2.1 cups of acid and 1 gal of 6% bleach. About 30 min later my 'handy dandy' test strip says FC 10+ ppm and pH seems to be about 7.2-7.8 ish (I hate trying to match colors). Until I get my test kit, any words of wisdom from the pool gods? As best I can tell I have FC high and pH about where the Baqua pool conversion protocol suggests. How often should I check and am I correctly reading the instructions that pH and FC and (once I get my kit) CC are the only things I should be worrying about at this point and in that order??

Yes, it appears that you are reading correctly. Until you know the conversion is almost complete don't worry about anything but those three parameters. And even then don't worry about the pH too much.

WOW, just went out to check the pool again after the sun was up a little (was dark by the time had gotten filled last night). I had almost forgotten what the bottom of my pool looked like with Baquacil in it. Thanks SO much for your help and guidance. I look forward to maintaining and continuing to see the bottom of my pool ALWAYS!!

Should I be trying to keep pH between 7.2 & 7.4 while keeping FC up at 15 or is it okay if pH jumps higher as the day goes on? After adding Muriatic Acid to lower pH, how long before I should be able to expect the reading to change? And how often is too often to check (yes, still using danged test strips until kit comes in) the Total Chlorine and Free Chlorine? Lastly, I know this is a stupid question but here goes, Total Chlorine & CC are not the same thing are they?? Sorry for the excessive questions, but I have read & read and can't seem to find some of these answers on here but I am learning and quickly (I think).

Do not attempt to test or adjust pH when FC is above 10. Test for pH is not reliable. Let FC drop down, then test and if needed, adjust.

Keeping pH in such a narrow range (7.2-7.4) is not necessary, anything between 7.2 and 7.8 is fine, even a bit more if you are not swimming.

That's why I mentioned not to worry about the pH too much. At higher FC levels the pH test becomes inaccurate. It reads higher than the pH really is. Some tests are more affected than others and given how inaccurate strips are anyway I'd suspect them to be way off.

So, to answer your question, yes, it's ok for the pH to read higher.
There's no such thing as too often. Since you're using strips that you will eventually toss out, you're not even worried about wasting reagent.
FC+CC=TC

Again, THANKS SO MUCH for the prompt replies. I will just ignore the pH for a while and concentrate on FC and eventualy CC. I just had read some other discussions that folks were cautioned against (at least that's how I took it) adding or focusing on chlorine levels BEFORE they had pH in the range recommended for conversion. Anywho, that's what had me a little concerned but I shall focus on Chlorine and watch my pool and look forward to swimming in clarity for a change !! THANKS ALL, AGAIN !!

Okay, kept FC at 10-15 all day yesterday and my handy dandy test strips (AquaChek 5) said FC was 3-5 last night, checked first thing this morning and it was still 3-5. Given the completely drained pool process I went through, I assumed CYA level was at or about 0 (haven't received my TF100 yet) so I added 4 lbs of stabilizer to 2 socks and put them in front of return jet. I hope my assumptions are not TOO bad. I also (because I am impatient) squeezed socks and manually ground CYA to accelerate entry into pool water (no fingers falling off....yet). Took about 1 hour total to allow soaking and then more sqeezing but socks seem to be empty and still in front of jet. (I wanted liquid stabilizer but no one seemed to have any) Is it still likely to be a day or more before CYA is in system or taking effect?? I also had pH reading 6.8 and added 2 cups of borax and now up to 7.6. Can you direct me to the area of this wonderful, yet HUGE forum that I can read the proper/easyist order to begin balancing the pool. I think I am on the right track (pool looks GREAT, crystal clear) but please break it to me gently if I have screwed up somewhere.

You are on the right track. ( I still have all my fingers too - nothing wrong with what you did.)

You did the right thing with adjusting the PH cuz sometimes when it's low, the CYA addition will lower it.

The CYA will take effect immediately. You just don't need to test for it right way because it doesn't always register right away.
In about 5-7 days test the CYA - in the meantime assume your CYA level is 30-40 based on 4 lb addition and keep your FC levels according to the CYA chart.

When you get your test kit, you can run a full set of tests (except CYA) but I think you'll be fine. What do the test strips put your TA at?

With a vinyl pool, the CH isn't important but you can run the test so we have an idea where you are.

You're doing great

I am at work but my wife ran the test strip for me again and the readings currently are:
TC - 2
FC - 2
TA - 0
pH - 6.8-7.2
TH - 100

Correction, TA - 0-40 and TH - 0
I miss read a text

Frustratedpoolmom, you said earlier with a vinyl pool CH isn't that important. I just yesterday received my test kit and am trying to absorb the methods and have run some simple chlorine & pH and they agree with the strips (more or less). The strips show TH total hardness, is this the same?

oops, Didn't mean to send that one until I also asked for clarification.... I have added 4 lbs of calcium chloride and hardness has gone from 0 to 100. I am assuming I need to get it higher, but if it really isn't important with a vinyl lined pool I will just monitor it. Thanks for your help.

There is no need to raise the CH level with a vinyl pool unless you have some new equipment with a warranty that requires it.

TH is total hardness, which includes both calcium harness and a magnesium hardness. CH is always less than or equal to TH, usually less than.

Well, the deed is done. I am completely converted to chlorine and BBB, WOW. I can't thank this Forum and the members and Jason and the rest enough.....AMAZING CLARITY, AMAZING SIMPLICITY (a little more work, but at least I know what the H*** I am putting in my pool, and just a "bit" less expensive), and EFFECTIVE !!! I cannot express my thanks enough, but, THANK YOU - THANK YOU - THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Congratulations!