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It is currently May 23rd, 2012, 12:38 pm
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gdog2004
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Post subject: Re: Dicholor to shock pool ?  Posted: August 26th, 2011, 5:04 am |
Joined: July 19th, 2011, 4:36 pm Posts: 97 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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slight change in plans...power was going to get installed Saturday but due to the hurricane coming our way they had to reschedule. They didnt want to leave a giant ditch open for inspection. I AM able to run my pump 5-6 hours a day and longer on weekends so that will have to do for now. So can I raise TA, raise PH, and raise CYA all at the same time ? or do I have to put one in...filter for an hour, etc... Should I put the filter on 1hp when I put in checmicals ?
_________________ 21' All Steel AGP with Resin caps, Heyward S244T Sand Filter, Heyward 1HP 2 speed pump
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anonapersona
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Post subject: Re: Dicholor to shock pool ?  Posted: August 26th, 2011, 8:20 am |
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Joined: November 5th, 2008, 7:13 am Posts: 1918
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The easy answer is yes, circulate an hour at 1 hp between chemicals. If you worry about the pump or the power line for that hour, then take your time or mix some other way.
I think there is room for a judgement call on that. Since you are not trying to swim, all you need to do is to be sure that each chemical is well mixed. That is a small pool, you ought to be able to run around it with a broom and create a whirlpool. Or, better than that, the Wall Whale brush moves a lot of water. I use that to distribute cal-hypo in my 23K gallon pool. I've mentioned that a few times, did you ever look for one? Using that, I know that I could totally mix a 21' pool in 10 minutes flat just by brushing away from all sides.
You will want to raise TA, wait a bit to mix well, however that happens. Then retest TA.
Then raise pH, wait a bit to mix well, then retest pH.
Then raise CYA. That will take some time to dissolve in a sock or knee-hi. Squish the sock every so often. The HTH brand dissolved in a matter of an hour or two. The pool store brand took longer but was still gone the same day when I had an occasion to use both recently.
_________________ 22,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas. Trouble Free Pool since April 2009.
Sill a novice, don't let the post count fool you
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gdog2004
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Post subject: Re: Dicholor to shock pool ?  Posted: August 28th, 2011, 6:44 pm |
Joined: July 19th, 2011, 4:36 pm Posts: 97 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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ok ran some tests after about 6 inches of rainfall. Chlorine---about 0-1 PH--7.4 to 7.6 TA--about 60 CYA---not sure I did this test right. I put the container waist level and looked down into it as I was pouring my mix in. I could see the black dot all the way to the top. so I guess maybe my CYA is at 0 ? Anyway I think I will add some chlorine tonight as theres some debris in the pool (little bit of leaves and a couple other dusty branch remnants) an d add CYA in the AM ? Sound reasonable ?
_________________ 21' All Steel AGP with Resin caps, Heyward S244T Sand Filter, Heyward 1HP 2 speed pump
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Dicholor to shock pool ?  Posted: August 28th, 2011, 6:54 pm |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1713 Location: Minnesota
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Have you added CYA yet (either just as CYA or in pucks...have you used the dichlor)? If you have, assume for now that amount and get some chlorine in there! Ph looks great, TA is a little low, but I would leave it for now and see how the pool does (how much ph varies and which way it goes).
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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gdog2004
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Post subject: Re: Dicholor to shock pool ?  Posted: August 28th, 2011, 7:34 pm |
Joined: July 19th, 2011, 4:36 pm Posts: 97 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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just put in 80 ounces of bleach. I used the Dicholor (32 oz) about 5 days ago so that should have put my CYA at about 18 or so. I figure with the 6 inches of rain it may have killed my CYA...not sure. Some leaves at bottom of pool but I have not hooked up vacuum yet. Just skimming with net. BTW--the return seemed to be a little sputtery---any idea why that would be ?
_________________ 21' All Steel AGP with Resin caps, Heyward S244T Sand Filter, Heyward 1HP 2 speed pump
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Dicholor to shock pool ?  Posted: August 28th, 2011, 7:57 pm |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1713 Location: Minnesota
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Pool calculator is telling me you will go to 12 ppm CYA for a 10000 gallon pool and 32 ounces dichlor. I would aim to get it up to ~30 ppm to start. gdog2004 wrote: BTW--the return seemed to be a little sputtery---any idea why that would be ? Could be a leak, probably on the suction side of the pump. Do you have a lot of air in the leaf basket?
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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gdog2004
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Post subject: Re: Dicholor to shock pool ?  Posted: August 29th, 2011, 6:37 am |
Joined: July 19th, 2011, 4:36 pm Posts: 97 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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linen wrote: Pool calculator is telling me you will go to 12 ppm CYA for a 10000 gallon pool and 32 ounces dichlor. I would aim to get it up to ~30 ppm to start. gdog2004 wrote: BTW--the return seemed to be a little sputtery---any idea why that would be ? Could be a leak, probably on the suction side of the pump. Do you have a lot of air in the leaf basket? do you mean a leak around one of the fittings ? What do u mean a lot of air in the leaf basket ? Are you referring to the basket inside the pump or the skimmer ? and how can I tell if I have a lot of air ?
_________________ 21' All Steel AGP with Resin caps, Heyward S244T Sand Filter, Heyward 1HP 2 speed pump
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Dicholor to shock pool ?  Posted: August 29th, 2011, 8:47 am |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1713 Location: Minnesota
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By sputtery, I assumed you meant bubbles popping out of the return? Yes I mean the basket just before the pump (connected to it) is there air at the top after the pumps been running for a few minutes? If the air amount at the top of that basket increases at from when you turned on the pump, that would be a good sign of a suction side leak. Often times a leaking cover gasket on that basket assembly will cause air to go into the system. Use some silicone or lithium grease on the o-ring to fix that (not Vaseline). It could also be one of the fittings between the skimmer and the pump.
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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