Hello all,
I've completed the installation of my CompuPool CPSC48! It was a little intimidating at first but it all worked out well. I've still got to figure out my run time and % setting on the control panel.
I used the pool calculator to figure how much salt to purchase. (17K pool needed 12 40lbs bags) Picked up the solar salt at HD it was $4.50 a bag. Brought it home and added it to the pool. It took about an hour to dissolve. I picked up some of the dip sticks to measure the salt it measure between 3500 and 4000 ppm. (The CPSC48 stated 4000ppm.)
My pool system is hooked up using 120V not 240V. I had to change the jumpers in the CPSC it comes factory set to 240V, it's an easy job to change it over. It explains how in the owners manual. My pool had a dead booster pump and timer box so I removed the booster pump and decided to use the wire connections there to wire in the CPSC control panel. Before I got too ahead of myself I just did the wiring and powered up the system to check the wiring was done right. Turned on the pump got the right indicator lights on the control panel. 1 hurdle down.
OH. The control panel is pretty heavy. They provide a mounting bracket that gets mounted on the wall then the control panel mounts to the bracket. Works well.
The actual SWCG that gets mounted into the plumbing is pretty big. Its the same housing for the CPSC 24/36/48. My setup I had a long straight run from the pool heater to where it feeds the returns, so mounting was no problem. I picked up 2-90 degree elbows and 10 foot section of 1.5 schedule 40 pipe. I cut 2-6inch long pieces to tie into the elbows. The CPSC comes with unions so it makes installation easy. I glued up the elbows, risers and unions as those were setting up I went cut into the pool plumbing.
One cut, no going back now. I dried fitted the mock up and measured 6.5 inches(give or take) needed to be removed from the piping. There is some play in the pipe and fittings. The elbows set and unions set up. Cleaned and glued them into the pool piping. The longest part was waiting the 2 hours for the glue to set up prior to applying pressure.
After the glue dried, I turned on the system. It seemed to take forever for the pump to prime. Watched the water go through the generating unit..... ohh bubbles. Then.. nothing.... Oh that's right the system runs through a 3 minute self test. All indicators normal. Hmm. Time was wrong, setting the time is in the manual. Ok time set correctly. Neat the unit tells the Salt content and the temperature. Sweet.

First impression. I'm happy.
Gives time, temperature and salt content. Life seems good. Will post updates and pictures.

Bob

Good job

And thanks for the writeup!

Hello all, I'm adding pictures of my setup.

More pictures

Hello,
Been thinking about it. This morning I turned down my CPSC48 from 100% to 70%. The reasoning is this is a larger unit. It's made for pools up to 60K gallons. I currently am running the pump for 6 hours a day from 9 am to 3pm. (no adjustable electric rates and its about $.13 KWH) My CYA is approx 100, and I'm keeping by FC level around 11. I'm going to let it drop to 6-8 down the road. Today when I measured the FC it was 11.5. I'm going to measure it this after noon and see where the level is and re-adjust the CPSC output. Also my PH was 7.6.
So far so well.

I will be adding borates shortly.

Looking at the same unit as you have. Will be following your posts daily. Good luck with it and let us know if you have any problems with it. I have been told that the temp and salt monitoring interact with each other. Have you noticed any problem in that area?

First complete day down. Some what of a learning curve. Compupool has these recommendations for pool water Chemistry:
FC 1-3
PH 7.2-2.8
TA 100-120
CH 200-300
CYA 30-60
TDS <1200

My numbers:
FC 11
PH 7.8
TA 175
CH 250
CYA 100
Borates 46

My unit shut down. Called tech support. They were pretty helpful. Reason unit shut down was unit was overheating. Running it at 70% out put They stated my chemistry is out of whack. I needed to turn down the percentage so the unit wouldn't over heat and work on getting my chemistry more in balance. I think the guy was surprised when I stated my FC was 11. He stated it shouldn't be more than 3.

I'm working on getting my TA down and decreasing my FC. I'm not sure what to do about the CYA. It's at approx 100 right now.

Should I take the CYA down to 60? (Central Florida, partial sun/shade, in the open with trees around)

The only thing that should make it overheat is if your Salt level is too high. Your salt level is at the top of their recommended range, so perhaps you need to lower salt a little.

I would work on lowering CYA, but just enough to get it down to 80 or 90. Replacing a little water will also bring down Salt, so that works out fairly well.

You can just turn the SWG off for a few days. That will allow FC to come down.

Definitely work on lowering TA.

With CYA around 100, I recommend targeting an FC level of 6.

How can they ask for TDS <1200 you add salt to a pool if you are using an Ionizer to raise the TDS.

I was wondering about this, thanks. I may pick one of these up in the next few weeks. Will decide between the CPSC48 and CPSC36 once I get some back pay

David

My unit was at 30% an my FC level was still at 11. I've turned it down to 10%, I'll be home tomorrow and think I'll shut the unit off. Till my FC comes down to 6. ool is looking great. There is no p in it. LOL

5/28 Update and numbers.
Hello All,
My pump and SWCG runs about 6 hours or so, 9am-3pm on a timer, then I'll put it on a little later if we're in it.
Did my full water test today, numbers follow:
FC 7
CC 0
TC 7
PH 7.5
TA 150
CH 325
CYA 100
Borates 46

I've been running my CPSC 48 at 10% today I kicked it up to 30%. I'm looking at keeping my FC at 6-7. I'll check tonight and see where my FC is at. Pool is looking great.
I also made a little fountain out of Sched 40 PVC piping. It has a nice sound to the water when the pump is running. I'll post a picture later.

I'm updating this thread kinda like a running log.
Test results
FC 6
CC 0
TC 6
PH 7.5

My FC is where it needs to be. I'm going to bump my production % up to 50% and see if my FC level stays steady.

The pool is in the open. I get leaves that drop in all day and night. I understand that breaking down the leaves will lower the FC levels as well as bather load.

You seem to have everything under control, there is not much we can add

You guys are great. I appreciate all the advise and assistance.

Today, we had a high bather load. 3 kids (1 baby), 7 adults. Tested my FC level about 1/2 hour after everyone got out and The FC was at 7. I stated earlier that I was going to bump it to 50% and actually did 60%. So all is working great. I brought it back down to 50% If it keeps climbing I'll bump it down to 40% and see where it stabilizes.

Of note my PH climbed to 7.6/7.7 throughout the day. Not sure how normal that is. Any advise?

With a TA of 150, the pH will tend to climb when using a SWCG. I would lower the TA to 70-90, and that should slow down the pH rise.

6/1 update:
FC 12
CC 0
TC 12
PH 7.4
TA 150
CH 250
Borates 46
Salt 4500

Crud my Salt has jumped up to 4500. If you have a water softener and you add water to the pool it will increase your salt content, at least it did on mine.
Then we had a higher than normal bathing load and the TC dropped to 3.5 and had trace CC. Figured out what happened. PEE. (must get sign there is on P in our OOL) Added 182 ozs of 6% bleach. That amount and the SWCG bumped my FC up to 12 and no CC. I'll let it come down with usage and lower my SWCG down also.

I'm going to go for a week and see how things work out. Not looking forward to changing out 1/4 of the water. Although that would lower my Salt and CYA. Decisions, Decisions. Maybe if when my wife goes away for a few days.

I lowered my PH to 7.2 to lower my TA, it hasn't come down. I was expecting a drop of about 20 or so.

Still working out the bugs.

Bob is your salt level reading 4000 all the time and what about your temp. readings? I'm about 10 days behind you and I noticed my salt and temp teadings not close to my salt strips and temp. readings.

My temp reading is about 6 degrees high and my salt reading is also high. I'm not worried too much about those reading though. I've adjusted my CPSC 48 to 40% production.
I'm running my pump at 9 hours, but looking at cutting it back. Pool water is sparkling. I've also got plenty of Chlorine production. Had an issue with high bather load so I manually added bleach (6% chlorine) and turned it up to 70%. Now I'm in the process of adjusting it down.
I check my FC an PH daily. (Actually I'm testing twice a day. Once in the AM and after the run cycle in the evening.) Trying to figure things out.

Numbers from this AM testing:
FC/TC: 11.5, CC:0, PH: 7.6, TA: 150, CH: 350, Salt 4000, Borates 46

FC and TA need to come down. I'm a bit confused about TA. I've taken the PH down to 7.2 and aerated.

What are the sources of TA? I've only added Muratic Acid (31%) (90 ozs), 182 Oz of Bleach, and some fill water (Softened), and some rain. (Not all at the same time, but between full measurements) TA hasn't come down. (Grrrr)

It often takes quite a few cycles of acid and aeration before the TA comes down significantly.