Why would corrosion form on the CE of my saltwater system? The water is clear, the water levels appear fine. The two bars have black and green on them.

No 1 is you should remove them and that won't be a problem. You don't need copper in your pool. All you have to do to prevent algae is maintain your FC according to the CYA in your pool.

What appears to be fine may not even be close. POsting a full set of test results would be good.
pH
FC
CC
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water Clarity

It'd be nice if you'd also tell us which system you have.

Thanks Bama...I'll post tomorrow the test results.

Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System Model CS8110
SandPro Pool Filter System Model 4510

Bare copper will corrode, and turn those colors. You should unplug the wire to them, copper is not needed with a properly maintained level of chlorine.

Test results from a pool store after we had rain today and sunshine. I ran the Saltwater system this morning so I'm not sure but I think that affected the chlorine. Pool guy recommended 3 cups of baking soda to raise TA. Should I use baking soda in a saltwater system?

FC-0
TC-0
ph-7.4
TA-57
CYA-20
Salt- 2790

4400 gal pool.

I'd worry less about the TA right now and more about the chlorine, salt, and CYA.

CYA for the Intex SWG's should be at least 60ppm, max 80ppm. Walmart carries HTH stabilizer/conditioner. Use the pool calculator to determine how much to add to raise your CYA 40ppm.

BUT... since you have no chlorine in the water right now you do not have a result on combined chlorine. We don't know if you need to shock or not. Until you know combined chlorine, do not raise CYA. Shocking at 60ppm CYA requires much more chlorine than shocking at 20ppm (cheaper, easier).

Your salt level is also low for the Intex SWG. You want it to be about 3000ppm, again you can use the pool calculator to determine how much salt to add.

Can we convince you to get your own test kit? The TF100 is the best value around, see my sig line for a link to TFTestkits. Running any size pool without a FAS-DPD test kit is like driving with a blindfold on. It just does not work.

For your size pool every 1 cup plus 1oz plus 1tsp (let's just call it 1 cup 2oz ok? lol) will raise chlorine by 1ppm. You may want to measure your actual water height and then run the values through the pool calculator for an accurate volume. My pool is the Intex 15x48 and I usually have the water level at 41" so the volume Intex gives for the pool is just a tad off.

Right now, your first order of business is getting chlorine into the pool. Time to go on manual with bleach and give the SWG a rest. For 20ppm CYA, you need to maintain minimum of 2ppm and high of 5ppm if the SWG is not working properly (maintaining chlorine at a steady level) so right now you need to go to the pool and add 6 cups of bleach. If you have ANY testing ability, check the pool in an hour and see how much chlorine you've lost. If you lost more than 1ppm something in the water is using the chlorine and you will need to seriously consider beginning the shocking process or it'll go green in short order.

Turn off the SWG for now, especially while you're trying to determine how much chlorine you are loosing. Loosing chlorine at night is a major sign that there's organics (algae) in the water, under normal conditions once the sunlight is off the pool you should loose 1ppm or less over the whole night so if you loose 1ppm in an hour you'll certainly loose more tonight.

The pool store results you got today are helpful, but you really need your own FAS-DPD test kit. I have a feeling you might need to shock, and it's not really possible to shock without a proper test kit. Read pool school (upper right, white button) to find out why. The TF100 is the best value around, see the link in my sig below.