Just purchased a Autopilot Nano with manifold to convert my pool to salt. This is a new complete unit.
I will be installing myself and am looking for things I should be aware of. I'm mainly interested in start-up concerns.
I have tested for CYA and have a reading of 75-80 which seems good?
My chlorine is on the way down from shocking Sat evening..it should be around 5 when I do install tomorrow.
Ph is 7.2 and TA is70.
Calcium hardness is 140.
I had local pool store check for current salt level and was surprised when he said it was 1400! Does that sound right?
I live in the Tampa area of FL and my water temp is at 84F.
If there is anything in my chemistry that needs adjusting prior to adding salt and firing it up, please let me know.
If one follows instructions, do these units start up with minimal issues? I plan to bond the unit to the ground rod for my pump and heater..is that ok?
Thanks in advance for your help.

Jrd

Jrd

Your water chemistry looks good and should make it easy to start up your Nano. it's very possible for your salt level to be 1400 ppm, especially if you've been using bleach or sodium hypochlorite for the past few years.

After you've added the Nano, put it to 0% output, then you can turn the pump and and add the salt to circulate.
Just add the amount of salt needed to get to 3000 ppm, from 1400 ppm.

Continue to let it circulate at least an hour for the salt to spread evenly. Then you can turn the system on, or off of 0%, to start generating chlorine. Start at 50%. Test the pool water and test again at the return jet closest to the equipment. You should detect a difference in the chlorine levels.
Run your pump like you normally would. Wait 2 days and recheck your chlorine level. Make adjustments to the Purifier % higher or lower, in response to what your Free Chlorine level is doing. Make small changes(10% increments) and wait another 2 days, until you get to your desired chlorine level.

Thanks...sounds good. Hopefully, my chlorine will be about right...I don't want to have low levels for even 2 days this time of the year. My pool will go green on you not much after 24 hrs of little or no chlorine. The nights here have gotten so hot already and the pollen levels have been very high.
But sounds like I'm ready to do this.

Had a small set-back. Talking with pool co. that I bought my SWG equip. from, I was telling him how even after shocking I get some light green streaking in corners at steps and where wall shape changes. It easily will brush off and when shocking up to about 15ppm, it seems to die and turn grey. But when I get down to 1-2ppm, I start seeing the streaks again. He says it is yellow algae and I should address it before I convert to salt. So, I used the Yellow-Out product , (sodium bromide???), and boosted my chlorine up to 15 ppm with bleach and brushed, cleaned filter and brushed again...now, my pool was barely showing some algae, (it would form a slightly green cloud as I brushed), in a few small areas. But I treated for it anyway. After about 4 hrs can I go ahead and install SWG & manifold and dump my salt?? I did the bromide 2 hrs ago. All other chems levels are good.

I suspect the 1-2 ppm of FC with a CYA of 70-80 was the culprit for letting the algae take hold. No idea on when you can start the SWG install.

We don't ever recommend any of the Yellow Out style products, they tend to cause problems. Make sure you follow their directions about massive chlorine doses on the schedule they recommend or they will make things worse. Some of those products are sodium bromide based, others are not. Sodium bromide can shorten the cell life of some SWGs.

You can install the SWG and add salt any time. But do not turn on the SWG until the salt has had at least 24 hours to mix in. Also, don't assume that your starting salt level is zero. It is often much higher than that.

With CYA at 80 your minimum FC level is 4 with a SWG, or 6 without a SWG. You let your FC level get way too low, which is why you have algae.