I have a question about my new salt system. Are the grey unions supposed to come off of the bottom of my cell? If I take the nuts loose the unions wont come out of the body. Is there a trick to it? Taking them off will make plumbing it in much easier.

Yes, the bottoms will come off once the nuts/tops are fully unscrewed. The bottom part of the unions have o-rings and fit pretty tight.

Thanks. I guess I'll pry easily on them.

Ok 1 more question. My plumbing is 2". I noticed if I slide a coupler all the way on the union the nuts won't unscrew. I haven't glued anything up yep but do you just not push the union all the way into the coupler?

I had trouble getting the Unions off also. took one person to hold the cell casing and another to twist and pull the Unions out.

As for the coupler and the unions not sliding down enough. You may need to add a section of 1-1/2" PVC pipe to extend it up, giving yourself enough room.

Will it hurt anything if I go down to 1 1/2" pipe at the cell since my plumbing is 2"? I like the idea of going inside the unions vs over them.

there is no difference

I got the cell plumbed and the unit mounted. I have 2 more questions for those of you that are familiar with this unit.

1. Where is the bonding lug? Do I just connected my bonding wire to one of the holes in the mounting bracket?

2. The instructions mention a clear cover that goes over the connections at the cell. Mine doesn't have this. Does anyone else?

I bought a 3 dollar bonding lug at home depot. I ran a 8 gauge copper wire from the bonding lug that's already on the control head to the current grounding line. I used the newly purchased bomding lug to connect the two.

The only covers I have are the light blue cover around the cell and the black rubber collar around the 3 terminal connections connected to the wire.

Where exactly is the lug on the control head? I don't see one.

Bottom right side of the case.

Mine was on the right hand side, sort of behind the head unit. If I remember right, I think it was connected to the black frame.

If thats the case I'll just drill a hole in the black metal frame and tie a lug to it.

Thanks for your help.

Tone100, Sorry It was dark last night when I responded.
I went out today and took some pictures for you.

Factory installed grounding lug.


Store bought lug to hook to current grounding line.


Connections casing?

I just got off the phone with Compupool and they said they stopped using the rubber connector at the cell. also they shipped some out without the bonding lug. They said just attach it to the metal mount.

I appreciate the photos. Did you run conduit all the way up to your unit? I thought about doing that but wasnt sure how to keep water out of it. I wish it just had a knockout.

As you can see, I ran conduit all the way to my timer box.
I felt this was the best way from keeping water off the line, and also not having it exposed in case something were to get caught on the electrical wire, etc.

I can't see the images. I just installed the CircuPool RJ 45 which is almost the same as the Compupool and have similar questions. My unit came with the bonding lug but I do not see were it goes attached. My case is all plastic except for the metal braket. If I attach the bonding lug to the metal bracket how does that protect my controller if it is plastic on metal? I spoke with Circupool and they said I do not need to bond if I am grounding at the timer and that is bonded. Is this correct?

Also, I was stumped on how to run the power to the timer. I had to extend the power cable another 5 ft so I needed to run conduit but no way to connect to the controller since there is no knock-out. What i did was run a 90 deg bend down and ran the power cable up the bend and over. Since the bend was exposed I used a Heat shrink wrap that fits over the 1/2 inch conduit and shrinks over the power cord.

I can see the images now. How did you get the conduit conected to the controller?
Also, my controller is all plastic but the bracket, is your controller box metal?

That's the only thing I haven't figured out yet. How to run the power wire through conduit to the controller and keep water out of the end. Right now I just have a short piece of conduit going down out of my junction box which will keep water out but the cord is exposed up to that point. For the bonding lug I just drilled a hole in the mounting bracket and attached it with a machine screw. Since the bracket is metal compupool said it would would be fine and they have seem them pass inspection that way.

My timer box is metal, it had knockout ports in different locations.

I don't know if this would work, but the you could carefully cut a hole using a hole saw bit the size of your conduit your running and put a hole in the side of it.
Then use a threaded connector to put into the hole and put the nut on the inside of the box.
And if you worry about water entering the hole you cut out, you could always throw some caulk around it.

[quote="WestSidePool"]My timer box is metal, it had knockout ports in different locations.quote]

I am talking about the SWG controller box, how did you get the conduit pipe into the plastic box?

Tone, is your controller box plastic or metal? I know the mounting plate is metal but the controller housing, is it plastic?