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It is currently May 22nd, 2012, 7:53 pm
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: July 27th, 2011, 9:42 pm |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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After battling with the stock 700gph pump, I broke down and bought the Intex 1600gph sand filter pump. Since the old pump has been out of commission, the algae got out of hand before I learned what to do about it. To simplify and speed things up, decided to drain and clean the pool and then refill.
It's nearly empty now. Going to scrub it down good and rinse it out, then start filling it back up tomorrow.
I have the new pump, 50 pounds of filter sand, the SWG, and 90 pounds of sand.
I've been reading the forum and Pool School for the last few days, but am still uncertain how to approach this.
Once the pool is full, should I pour in all the salt in and then wait a day or two before firing up the SWG?
Or should I add the CYA and some bleach first to get the chlorine going first?
Would like to get it going ASAP, but also want to learn the right way to get the pool going since we'll be doing it again in the spring.
Thanks, jakeinga
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Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: July 27th, 2011, 10:05 pm |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1709 Location: Minnesota
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jakeinga wrote: After battling with the stock 700gph pump, I broke down and bought the Intex 1600gph sand filter pump This is a much much better pump an filter, you will love it. Since the old pump has been out of commission, the algae got out of hand before I learned what to do about it. To simplify and speed things up, decided to drain and clean the pool and then refill. It's nearly empty now. Going to scrub it down good and rinse it out, then start filling it back up tomorrow. I have the new pump, 50 pounds of filter sand, the SWG, and 90 pounds of sand. I assume you mean salt I've been reading the forum and Pool School for the last few days, but am still uncertain how to approach this. We will help. Best place to start is: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/temporary_pool_guide Once the pool is full, should I pour in all the salt in and then wait a day or two before firing up the SWG? Yes, wait until it goes into solution. Swimmers help alot, brushing too, and pumping 24/7. Or should I add the CYA and some bleach first to get the chlorine going first? Yes and yes, read the link above.Would like to get it going ASAP, but also want to learn the right way to get the pool going since we'll be doing it again in the spring. Thanks, jakeinga
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: July 27th, 2011, 10:13 pm |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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Yep, I meant 90 pounds of salt. So you're saying I should add CYA and bleach before dumping the salt in? Nothing I've read is really clear on that. If that's the case, then I would have to wait around a week before turning the SWG, right? Since the CYA takes a while to dissolve?
_________________
Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: July 27th, 2011, 11:17 pm |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1709 Location: Minnesota
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To start with you can chlorinate your pool with bleach until the salt goes into solution (crystals disappear in pool water). It takes my pool 24-48 hours for the salt to dissolve. Meanwhile you want to have FC (free chlorine) in your pool to avoid organics. You will be adding chlorine every day until you turn on the swg, then the swg will take over maintain normal levels of chlorine in your pool. Step 3 of the link I mentioned above suggests starting with 6 ppm of FC in your pool. Step 5 discusses how to add CYA using the dichlor method. If you do not already have dichlor, I recommend using granular stabilizer (ingredents should be ~99% Cyanuric Acid) put in a sock and hung by the pool return. It will take a few days to dissolve. Use the poolcalculator.com for all calculations including how much cyanuric acid to put in your pool. Get a good test kit, it will save you money and time in the long run! See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparisonLet us know if you have questions!
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: July 28th, 2011, 8:18 am |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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Now I think I'm on the right path.
Thank y'all very much for clearing that up.
_________________
Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 1st, 2011, 2:35 pm |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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I filled an old sock with the CYA and tied it off to the bottom of the ladder.
Then added bleach to the pool for the first couple evenings.
It doesn't look like the CYA is dissolving very well. Put it in three days ago. Isn't it supposed to be totally dissolved after a week or so?
_________________
Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 1st, 2011, 3:10 pm |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1709 Location: Minnesota
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I would put the sock by the return, so it gets buffeted by the flow. You can also squeeze it whenever you are out by the pool. If the CYA sock is left undisturbed, it can take much longer to go into solution.
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 1st, 2011, 3:21 pm |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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I'll have to try that, thanks!
_________________
Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 2nd, 2011, 9:06 am |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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Not sure what the brand is, it was the only stabilizer I could find at Wal-Mart.
We don't have a pool shop in town, and Ace didn't have any in stock.
_________________
Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 2nd, 2011, 10:07 am |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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I climbed down the ladder this morning and squished it around a bit.
Seems like it got knocked around pretty well yesterday, as it's all nearly gone now.
So once it's totally gone I should be able to get a fairly accurate reading on the CYA, right?
Until I'm able to get a TF kit, I'll have to take my water to ACE and have it tested. I bought the 6-way strips at Wal-Mart, but don't really trust them.
_________________
Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 2nd, 2011, 10:10 am |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1709 Location: Minnesota
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I would wait a few days to test (maybe a week), since some of it is probably still hanging around your pool bottom. It is not uncommon for CYA readings to take a week to stabilize after it is in the pool. Also, if you do not need too, I would not backwash the filter.
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 2nd, 2011, 10:45 am |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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Uuuuhhh...so then I guess it wasn't a good idea to test out the vacuum yesterday. 
_________________
Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 2nd, 2011, 10:51 am |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1709 Location: Minnesota
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jakeinga wrote: Uuuuhhh...so then I guess it wasn't a good idea to test out the vacuum yesterday.  If you vacuumed to waste...probably not...wait a few days, then test. If you need more, add it then.
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 2nd, 2011, 10:58 am |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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I didn't put it on waste, just the normal filter setting.
So I guess it's all in the filter now.
_________________
Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 2nd, 2011, 11:11 am |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1709 Location: Minnesota
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Your good then, just don't backflush for a week (maybe less since I would think the CYA would go into solution faster being in the filter and seeing flow/disturbance all of the time).
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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jakeinga
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 4th, 2011, 9:04 am |
Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm Posts: 29
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Hey linen, I notice in your sig that you have removed the copper bars from your SWG.
Why is that?
_________________
Central Georgia 14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons) Intex SWG Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump 2 kids ready to jump in already
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linen
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Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup  Posted: August 4th, 2011, 9:10 am |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1709 Location: Minnesota
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To keep copper out of the pool...always a very good idea. Copper can stain the pool and turn blond hair green (used to happen to me in a pool when I was taking a lifeguard training instructor course). Removing the copper bars was probably an overreaction on my part. I could have just unplugged them so the system wouldn't produce the the copper ions, but I didn't want any copper in my pool. Copper ions for an "algaecide" are not needed when a pool is properly chlorinated and maintained.
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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