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jakeinga
 Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup
PostPosted: August 4th, 2011, 9:14 am 
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Joined: July 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm
Posts: 29
I didn't realize that the SWG was producing copper. I just thought the bars were somehow used in the production of chlorine.

Our pool is looking great, by the way.

I keep the pump running for around 12 hours a day and have lately kept the SWG running for 4.

Once all the CYA is dissolved, I'll take a sample to ACE and have it tested.

Trying to keep the chlorine level high, although I don't have a reliable way of testing it. Using strips and the cheap chlorine test from Wal-Mart currently.



_________________
    Central Georgia
    14' x 42" Summer Escapes frame set(3750 gallons)
    Intex SWG
    Intex 1600gph Krystal Clear sand filter pump
    2 kids ready to jump in already
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linen
 Post subject: Re: Clarification on pool startup
PostPosted: August 4th, 2011, 9:32 am 
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am
Posts: 1709
Location: Minnesota
jakeinga wrote:
I didn't realize that the SWG was producing copper. I just thought the bars were somehow used in the production of chlorine.
You can just unscrew the "nut" on top of the bars and then pull the plug off and leave it.

jakeinga wrote:
Once all the CYA is dissolved, I'll take a sample to ACE and have it tested.

Trying to keep the chlorine level high, although I don't have a reliable way of testing it. Using strips and the cheap chlorine test from Wal-Mart currently.
Get the TF100: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison. It will save you time and money longterm...and it's fun to use :-D



_________________
Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside.
If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until:
1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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