Can someone tell me if this is green or yellow algae?

jblizzle · Posted: August 9th, 2012, 6:28 pm

Might be algae ... follow the shock process and keep brushing and it should be gone (unless the pool is actually stained).

3FootPool · **Joined:** May 29th, 2011, 7:50 pm **Posts:** 33

jblizzle wrote:

Might be algae ... follow the shock process and keep brushing and it should be gone (unless the pool is actually stained).

If it is stained, what are the steps for that? I do have some slight rust on my pool steps, should this be a concern?

jblizzle · Posted: August 9th, 2012, 8:29 pm

If it is stained, it is just aesthetic. How to remove it depends if it is organic (use chlorine) or metal (use vitamin C) stains.

duraleigh · Posted: August 10th, 2012, 9:26 am

3foot,

No one can tell from a picture if you have algae for sure, let alone a certain species. The point to remember is chlorine kills algae, regardless of the species.

Maintain your pool by learning to test accurately and frequently and then understanding what the tests mean.

Your test results don't look half bad at all but you must learn what constitues good and bad tests.

Start by reading the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry in Pool School and then read how to shock your pool in Pool School as well.

If you learn the basics, shock your pool, and then maintain your parameters within the suggested ranges in pool School, you won't have any type of algae.

3FootPool · **Joined:** May 29th, 2011, 7:50 pm **Posts:** 33

jblizzle wrote:

If there is not much to pick up, then just see how the sand filter does.

No more tablets!!! They add CYA and you are at the top of the recommended range. They will last for years, so you may be able to use them while on vacation or if your level drops due to backwashing and winter.

Basically, you are correct, Taylor does not take the CYA into account ... there are some weird legal reasons why companies never say more than 4ppm too. Government and pool companies seem to be VERY slow accepting the proven chemistry and change their ways.

You think it will be okay if I get a Floating Chlorinator which can tune the output at the lowest. I do like the idea that this can maintain the chlorine in the pool...I have Leslies 3" Jumbo tabs (99% trichloro-s-triazinetrione). I use to leave it in the skimmer, maybe that is why I was getting so much CYA and high pH?

jblizzle · Posted: August 10th, 2012, 7:28 pm

No. On the lowest setting it will not likely add enough FC and you will still be adding CYA which its already on the high end.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short

3FootPool · **Joined:** May 29th, 2011, 7:50 pm **Posts:** 33

I ran a set of test again today and my following readings are:

FC - 5.5
CC - .5
pH - 7.8
Alk - 150
CH - 225

Any reason why my FC dropped from 9.5 to 5.5 in 12 hours? Is it still fighting the algae? Also, should CC be at .5? The only thing I added last night was approx 3.5lbs of Dry Acid.

Where on this forum can I find TBP's recommended chemical levels (FC, CC, CYA, TA, pH, CH, etc.)?

jblizzle · Posted: August 10th, 2012, 7:52 pm

From Pool School {have you read it all yet?}
pool-school/recommended_levels

Your FC drop is slightly above normal so there must still be something in the water.
CC of 0.5ppm is fine.

Can someone tell me if this is green or yellow algae?

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