I have an Aqua Pure 1400 system, and not having any luck generating chlorine. The only indicator light on the panel which is on all the time is the green power light. However, the cell reversing light comes on once in a while and stays on. All other lights remain off. In the meantime, the pool water is green (algae). I am constantly shocking it to clear it up, but a couple of days later I am back to a cloudy and green pool. The salt content is up to approximately 3200 ppm and the ph about 7.8 - 8.0. I cleaned the cell with a 4-1 mixture of water to acid and that didn't seem to help. I then open the panel and performed the diagnostic test and came up with the following: 3.0, 74 and 90 instead of the manual specified 2.8, 75 and 91. Are these values close enough to rule out the front panel board? The error (service) codes that I am getting are 172, 174 and 181. From what I have read, it sounds as though the sensor is bad? I ordered a new one today ($179.00), part number R0452500. I believe that this is the newer sensor, slotted, not threaded. At this point, and until the new component arrives, what else could be the cause of no chlorine being generated? Could one of the boards inside also be bad? What do I look for? And are there special precautions to take when starting up initially after replacing the sensor? How would I determine if the cell itself is bad?
Thanks in advance.

It sounds like you already have the troubleshooting guide.


I think these reading are close enough. My front board tested similiar on my older Jandy 1400. When my tri-sensor was failing, I got pretty much the same symptoms you are having. With no flow detection from the sensor, basically no lights come on. Once I got the new sensor (I did a new cell too) in place everything has worked good all summer.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Charlie.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have the manual and have spent a fair amount of time going through it. I ordered a new sensor and should have it this week. Are there any precautions or special procedures to start the system up with a new sensor? I'll keep you posted once the sensor is installed.
Thanks again.

No special precautions. Just make sure the power is off. If I remember right, there was a slightly different color scheme on the wiring on the new sensor as compared to my old sensor. I found a post on this board that explained it and I think the instructions covered it also. If you have a slotted sensor you should have the 3 port cell already, so the wiring colors on the new vs old sensor should be identical for you. I switch from the old threaded sensor to a the newer 3 port cell with the slotted sensor.

Yours should be a pretty simple plug and play deal. No worries.

Charlie

Thank you sir! I am keeping my fingers crossed that there are no other issues. We just moved into this house a couple of weeks ago and I have no history of the pool maintenance.

I installed a new sensor today, at last I am now getting a flow indicator (light) and cell on indicator (light). My question now is how long is the cell reversing cycle? And how frequent does this cycle? This is an Aqua Pure 1400 (Jandy) system.
Thanks

Russcart, welcome to TFP!
I hope your new sensor works for you and your SWG is back to good. That being said, it sounds like you aren't shocking the pool correctly! Take a read through Pool School (button in the top right corner of the page), especially this one:
pool-school/shocking_your_pool

Thanks for the assistance and advice. The sensor appears to be operating as it should now. My current water analysis is:
FAC - 5 ppm
TAC - 5 ppm
Salt - 3000 ppm
CYA - 90 ppm
TA - 90 ppm
pH - 7.7
PHo - 300 ppb
The test was taken before the new sensor had any effect on the water chemistry (a couple of hours after installation) but I wanted something to compare to in another day or so. I have no visible trace of algae and the water appears clear. After the test as noted above, I did treat the pool to lower the PHo though. I read the article about shocking and to this point, been taking the advice of a local pool store rep and other owners with similar systems. The question that I still have is about cell reversing, how frequent is it and how long is each cycle? Does it depend on the cell condition? I just happened to notice that it was in that condition later in the day after installing the new sensor? And I inspected the cell while troubleshooting the sensor and cleaned it, although it appeared clean.
Thanks for taking the time to reply to my issue.

Glad to see you got it working. I do not know for exactly how long the cell reversing cycle is, but I would not worry about it. I run my pump/swg for 3 hours at midnight and two hours in the morning with the cleaner running too. I think the cell spends a pre-set time each hour or two hours in "cell reversing" mode. I guess it helps with keeping the plates clean inside the cell. It still produces chlorine during this time, my understanding is that it just reverses voltage/polarity on the plates which helps keep the scale build up down.

My pool has very high calcium levels and builds scales on the cell plates pretty quickly. I just got the house (like you) recently and found the existing cell totally clogged. With high calcium (mine is like 500 ppm) you need to keep the TA down lower as per the pool school method. I just finished my first summer with the BBB method and had excellent water all summer. Could not be happier. Next year I am going to do a partial drain and try and get the calcium levels down and then throw the Borates in there as per BBB method.

Based on the experiences I had with my Jandy 1400, I think you are good to go!

Charlie.