Ok,
I am strongly considering moving from BBB Chlorine to Salt. Couple of questions.

1) if I move to salt, can I go back to Chlorine if need be? I would assume yes

2) Aqua Trol Twist lock. I have a wired pump timer with a Twist Lock, The Aqua Trol as I see it the SWG would go into the Twist Lock and then the pump into the SWG so it uses that timer. Understood I beleive as stated

3) Bonding, my electrician (and it was inspected) ran a copper wire from the pump to the pool upright (pool is resin with steel uprights in oval) and put a screw in. So if I do a SWG, can I mimic the same, get a copper wire and drill another screw into the upright? My one friend said to jump a 'bridge' from the SWG to the pump lug, but I won't do that.

4) I read a few negative posts on Aqua Trol, but I think I should be OK since I have an abundance of chlorine on hand and bleach, but all in all is that a good investment for Above Ground, or should I bite the bullet and have the electrician out again which is $$$.

Thanks

1) Yes, it is extremely easy to switch back and forth, just stop using one and start using the other. Some of the recommended levels are different, but that can be adjusted over time, you don't have to deal with it right when you switch.
2) Right.
3) You can do that if you want. I would just run a wire from the SWG bonding lug to the pump bonding lug.
4) The Aqua Trol is very well reviewed. Most people who get one end up being very happy with it. There are always some who prefer using chlorine, that isn't all that common.

Thanks, I beleive you were the one that mentioned it to me. I think I will most likely shop one during the winter. My Wife keeps complaining of the chlorine and eyes burning, etc.

Thanks Again

Like Jason said, this is perfectly fine to do.

Note that a salt pool is a chlorine pool. The chlorine is not what bothers people's eyes. It's combined chlorine (aka chloramines) that cause eye irritation. If you are not currently using FAS-DPD and testing for FC and CC, then you should to make sure that there will be no eye irritation. The FC should be kept between 7.5 % and 15 % of the cyanuric acid level at all times to ensure that there is enough chlorine to fully oxidize all of the organics and ammonia type compounds in a timely manner.

Since you are actually having swimmer comfort issues with your present setup, I strongly suggest that you give us a full set of test result numbers and water condition, and we can help to try to isolate and correct whatever might be the problem.

Pool is covered right now so I will wait a few months I guess. These were numbers mid summer, I have to find my log book ( I logged daily) but I think I ran my FC around 8 or 9 but rest of numbers were consistent. I did that because of the high CYA which pool store said was low. Keep in mind I probably dumped 1/3 of my water trying to get CYA down and was strictly BBB with one exception when I went away and had a neighbor keep an eye on the pool and put pucks in for a week, then took them out. But CYA was stable.

Now for Salt, I will run through Pool Calculator, but what is ideal CYA?
Also, is it good practice to hose deck and stuff off due to salt?
I am having an issue finding brick and mortar dealer for aquatrol. Mail order is fine if reputable.
I have to do a PVC setup, especially after last year busting a hose. now with that any suggestions on Aqualuminator oddball size? I hate to glue something to it and it not work and then I have no fitting on the pool. That is my luck.

Just to confirm, since this is a confusing topic. Bonding the SWG to the pump which is bonded to the pool upright should be OK? This is confusing I have read about Bonding loops, grids, etc. I don't want to put the kids at risk, I realize it is only 110v and GFCI protected and done by licensed electrician who ran a shieleded ccasble back to my fusebox because I had a light in the skimmer wall. HE said the code did not differentiate between above ground and in ground. So electrically it was done right and inspected prior to my thought of a SWG. Inspector commented on nice wiring job as well.

Lastly, my skimmer, pool company stripped 2 screws and put 2 oversized in, I hope they are stainless. I guess I can do the magnet test when I open.



FC 8
CC 0
PH 7.4
TA 80
CH 230
CYA 90

In reading your signature i see Zeobrite.
I may be wrong but I seem to remember reading that Zeobrite can't be used in a salt water pool.
If I'm wrong someone please correct me.

I think it can, but you won't get the benefits of the chloramines being absorbed. That was my understanding. My Pool dealer said he ran zeo in his with SWG, he said he did not get full advantage of zeo based on what I alluded to.

Good question, looking forward to responses

Doing some research, I see there is a Return Jet version and a HP version. I think I would opt for the HP version since I don't have a true Return Jet with the Aqua Luminator. It appears the HP is more expensive and seems to come with a flow switch. The documentation for the RJ version says to mount vertical to allow the gases to vent but the HP does not say that. I assume this is why HP is more expensive due to additional switch.

With all that being said, is it best to mount these cells on the ground or can they be inline in PVC being supported by the PVC? I am planning to PVC my setup with breakaway connectors or whatever they are so I can disassemble easily.

You can mount the cell inline in PVC or use hoses, either approach is fine. If it is practical, mount the cell so the water flows up from the cell to the return (no dips in the hose/pipe). If that isn't practical it isn't a big deal.

Zeo is just fine with salt pools. I don't recommend Zeo because it can occasionally be problematic for other reasons, but when it works (which is most of the time) it works just great.

Any Idea if the HP comes with a flow monitor? Is that why that is so much more expensive. Does the RJ and HP models use the same cell.

Thanks

Hi,
I purchased the RJ Model last spring from one of the Suppliers on this board & got a discount also. Fast shipping & good service. I also have the Aqualuminator & decided not to try disturbing it to connect to. I like to take the bulb out for the winter, & also had a bulb burn out once, so I wanted that easily accessible. I added a second return to install the Aquatrol to, about 20' downstream, with valves on each return to shut them off if needed or wanted. Works very well. The pump plugs into the Aquatrol controller, & I use the integral timer to dial in my run time & generator % settings. Though only one season under my belt, I have no issues with any type of corrosion on the pool or wood deck surround. When I got it dialed in, the only maintenance was keeping the leaves cleaned up, & adding an occasional dose of muratic acid to keep the PH in check. In my opinion & experience so far, best thing since sliced bread. I am very happy with it, & wonder why I didn't do the change years ago. I still use hose but use the heavy duty farm type with a spiral. I've never had a busted hose since using it. PVC is on my list to clean things up a bit though.

It's a few months off yet I know, but do buy salt test strips & test before adding anymore salt. Mine was at 800 already before adding any. Then use the pool calculator & go from there. I also erred on the lower side for salt level at first not to overdo it.

Not to beat this to the ground, but my 1.5 hp pump states 12 amps and aquatrol is 2.5-4. I need to find out what my timer can handle since it controls the pump outlet. I am on a 20 amp breaker, so I am ok amp wise on the circuit board. The Aquatrol says you can plug up to a 15 amp pump into the panel. Is the 12 amp pump pushing it too much. Second Choice is Pool Pilot Digital Nano or pool pilot AG, but the expense of the electrician is blowing my budget for what he wants to wire a second twist lock into my exisiting timer is high. What I like about the Aquatrol over pool pilot AG is the plug on the control panel so I would not need the electrician. I only plan on living here maybe 5 more years which is why I am trying to cut costs but don't want to sacrifice quality.

I'm not enough of an electrician to answer fully, maybe someone else with more knowledge will chime in. If it was mine tho, I would tend to go for it. I think the 15 amp outlet would handle it.
Dave