First time poster; short time reader!

First of all, great forum. Thanks in advance for all the expert opinion!! Can’t wait to move into a BBB state of mind. But first….

I just purchased a home with a four year old 28k gallon gunite pool with SWCG (all original equipment). I have an Aqua Logic AQL-PS-4 Automation/Chlorination system. For the last three weeks, I’ve been dealing with a “Cell Power Error” issue. The Chlorinator has been off during this time and my pool maintenance service provider has added Chlorine sticks to up the FC.

Bottom line, after having three differnet techs out (I’m anal), I’m in agreement the board is fried (after four years). I don’t share the chemistry of the pool on this post because I’m down to hardware selection. I’m not excited about my options and after reading about pre-mature board and cell failures with Goldline, I am contemplating replacing the whole system. My most trusted (many recommendations and ‘gut feel’) service provider recommends option two below. I’m tempted to just replace the main board ‘on the cheap’ but I don’t want to deal with the cell next year and have to dump another $1k.

Option 1: Replace the Goldline Aqualogic Main Board $895.00

Option 2: Operate the Goldline Aqualogic system without $1750.00
replacing the main board and install an
Auto Pilot Pool Pilot Digital chlorine generator
with a RC-35/22 cell.

Option 3: Completely replace the Goldline Aqualogic system with a $4255.00
Jandy Aqualink RS-8 PDA system with a salt chlorine
generator.

Option 4: Install the Auto Pilot Pool Pilot Digital as priced in option 2. $3100.00
At a later date you can replace the Goldline Aqualogic
system with a Jandy Aqualink PS-8 PDA.

Sorry this post isn’t overly technical – I feel comfortable with the decision point I’m at and just need some recommendations.

Thank you,

Rookie

Welcome to TFP Rookie

If you PM Poolsean, he should be able to give you some solid advice on options 2&4 as I believe he is our rep for Pool Pilot.

I don't believe replacing it with another system will provide any additional reliability. It seems they all have their own nuances that typically have issues after around 5 years. You could replace the main board much cheaper as well. Two links below that have newer versions of the board that have improved on the old board. One is the 2.66 version and the other is the newest version 2.85
http://cgi.ebay.com/Goldline-Hayward-Aq ... 27b302d5e8 (2.66 for $285)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Goldline-Hayward-Ci ... 35abdeadf1 (2.85 for $395)

The PS-4 is well known for the no cell power issue so you may be able to fix this yourself.

All, thanks for the rapid fire responses! Couple follow up questions:

1) The links provided above are links to eBay. Are you comfortable purchasing equipment in this manner?
2) The error is “Cell Power Error” not No Cell Power Error

Another data point. I just put the system into spa mode – no issues. Tried to cut on the lights and they did not respond (I just had them on last night). I turned off the breaker (per forum suggestions) and now the error message is gone; however, the lights are still not working.

Perhaps I need to go all manual….

Thanks again,

Rookie

From what I understand, the same issue can also cause a "Cell Power Error" so it may still be worth looking into. It could save you quite a bit of money with a simple inspection.

Rookie, I had this problem 6 months ago. I saved $600 in 15 minutes! It's worth it to take 5 minutes to look at the back of your board to see if there is a bad solder point. http://www.nocellpower.com walks you through it and it's simple. If you look at the back of the board and you don't find any bad solder points where he tells you to look then at least you know it's not a 10 minute / $0 fix. I simply heated up my bad solder point and it now works like a charm. Didn't even have to unplug the board!

I'm all for trying to find the most cost effective fix first, so if the solder repair that Joe Texan recommended, then awesome. If it doesn't work, my questions would be, how many devices are you looking to control from a control system? And of course I would recommend the Pool Pilot system too. ; )
Not sure if I would recommend the RC35/22 cell though, unless you're running your pump 24/7
You should go with at least the RC42 cell, if not the RC52.

Thanks to all for the tips. I will plan to look at the board for a bad solder point - make a lot of sense. PoolSean (high voltage systems right?) - I will have a spa pump, blower, pool pump and a heater being controled by the board. I will only be running the cell for around eight hours a day.

OK - was able to break away and check the solder points. Everything looks OK. Really wish it didn’t so I could have a quick fix.

So...back to my original question (I think Eric99gt had some great perspective). Is Eric's view consistent with the forum's general consensus (e.g. replacing the whole system won't bring much more added reliability)?

Also, does the fact my lights just stopped working add any other data to the equation?

Thanks TFP posters!!

In regards to buying from the eBay links above. That's where I bought mine. I bought the 2.85 version about 3 months ago and had no issues. Just look at their feedback ratings. As for the reliability thing, I'll let someone else comment on that as I'm no expert and have just gathered that opinion after reading a year or so's worth of threads here. I've never actually had to maintain anything else besides a Aqualogic System.

Thanks Eric99gt. I would love some final feedback from the posters before I pull the trigger. I never thought about going refurbished but the pricing is pretty compelling.

Hi. I know this thread is a couple of years old, but I am desperate and is hoping someone can help me. I have an aqua logic ps-4 system that i think was installed in 2004/5. I am getting the cell power error as well. I have tried resetting the system, checked the fuses, and resolder the suspected loose k1 point on the circuit board. Everytime I reset the system by shutting down the power and unplugging the cell cord, the error message disappear, but only to return 15-20 minutes later.

My questions are:

1. Is there anything else I should check
2. Should I replace the circuit board. If so which one should I buy
3. Should I replace the entire system, or add an auto pilot system

Thank you in advance for any help anyone can provide

Hi Scottie,
I have the same problem with Aqua Logic PS-8
"Cell Power Error"
It's been ongoing for a couple years. As you noted, the error message disappears when you flip the breakers off, unplug the cell from the control panel, wait a while (an hour?), flip the breakers back on, wait for the display to say that the SWG is unplugged, then plug it in.
This "fix" can last from a few minutes to a few months.
Lately, for me, it is happening multiple times every day.
I am going to try replacing the OMRON relay ($3 part) as pointed out here:

http://www.manulabo.com/Hayward/aqlcperren.htm
The tough part of the job may removal of the old relay.
Otherwise, it looks like board replacement time.
I will post the results.
Please let us know what you end up doing.
Best of luck.

Hi desoto. Welcome. Thank you for the tip. Since my post I have cleaned my pool and adjusted all the chemistries to acceptable ranges. Since then the "cell power error" message has only come up once, and it disappear on it's own after half a day. I wonder if the water chemistry has anything to do with it. I have not did anywhere that talks about the effect of pool chemistry on the function of the cell.

In the meantime, I am constantly watching for the error message. Let me know how the relay replacement goes.

Thanks.

New to this site and posting...so here we go!

Problem: A year long, intermittent problem, with "Cell Power Error"

What I tried: Resetting the main board by turning the power (breaker) on/off, error reappeared after 10-15 min., adding salt, checking the main board for visible faults, and other stuff that didn't work.

**Before reading "desoto's" post, I was ready to order a new main board for $400**

Correction: Visited http://www.manulabo.com/Hayward/aqlcperren.htm and looked at my board to verify it was the same (it was). Went to the Digi-Key website and ordered a "Z1010-ND" relay (no minimum $ order and received it in 2 days) and replaced the relay on the board.

PLEASE NOTE: It was a big PITA to replace, I tore a "flat wire / strip" when attempting to remove the five pin relay. I saved it, but just be careful. In hindsight, I would have taken the board to someone with experience with circuit boards.

Anyway, it's been three days since the repair, NO "Cell Power Error" and the chlorine level is now okay.

Fixed for a whopping $7.33!

Thanks to all and a special thanks to "desoto"!

Hi kings74,

That's great that you got the problem fixed. I will try to replace the relay as well. How did you know to use the G8p-1C4p Dc24 instead of the g8p-1c4p dc12?

Thanks.

Scottie,

The specs (on mine) were in upper left corner of the relay:
omron
G8P-1C4P
24VDC

Easy to see when you get access to the board.

Good luck!

Thank you very much