Hello all,

I am really hoping there is someone out there that knows old Jacuzzi spas and can help me solve this. I inherited a 17 year old spa (manufactured 1994) when I bought my house. Worked great for two years, then the pump wet-end cracked/leaked, the heat stopped working, and the wood frame started rotting out.

I decided to rebuild it (I was way in over my head with this). At this point the frame is rebuilt and the following components have been replaced (all are brand new):

- Pump, replaced with http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/spasuppl ... 410-1A.htm
- Heater, replaced with http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/spasuppl ... /50080.htm
- Pressure switch, replaced with http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/spasuppl ... /30408.htm
- Topside control, replaced with http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/spasuppl ... /51422.htm
- Circuit board, replaced with http://superior-spa-pool.com/Balboa-pc- ... -plug.html

The pump runs great, there are no leaks, I just don't have heat! The heat light comes on when you start the spa and I hear a "click" from the control board. The light stays on but the water never heats. All pump speed and light controls work from the panel. I have tested the heating element and I have voltage (220v) when it is on and it has continutiy when the spa is off @ 9 Ohms.

Please help. Thank you so much in advance!

If you've got 220v and 9ohms across the heater terminals then you'd necessarily have heat. Did you test the power at the terminals themselves? How long have you let it run?

Thank you for the reply. Yes, the terminals is where I tested. It's been running for about 24 hours. :/

I just found the following document on how to tune the pressure switch and I followed the procedure:

http://www.ccowhirlpool.com/web-pdfs/Ja ... gGuide.pdf

Before I did this, I was getting a "closed" reading on the pressure switch when the power was off and "open" when on in low mode. Now I am getting the opposite which according to the document is correct. I'll let you know in a few hours if it worked!

Thanks.

is there air in the line?

Just to be sure, when testing the volts at the terminals are you testing them with one probe on one and one on the other or are you testing them individually to ground? If the flow switch is open on low then you'll get 110v on each terminal to ground but that doesn't mean it adds up to 220v. It's the same 110v traveling from one end to the other. With the probes on both terminals you'd read 0v because there's no difference in potential between the two.